In this, the first of three blog posts relating to the effects of colonisation on Sri Lanka’s cuisine, culture, economy, and architecture, we explore the influence of the Portuguese whose colonial rule lasted from 1505 to 1658.
Sri Lankan cuisine reflects the island's rich cultural heritage and history of trade and colonization. Among the various influences on Sri Lankan cuisine, the Portuguese era stands out significantly. Lasting from the early 16th to the late 17th century, Portuguese colonial rule brought significant changes to Sri Lanka’s way of life. From the introduction of new ingredients to the fusion of cooking techniques, the Portuguese influence has left an enduring mark on Sri Lankan culinary traditions. The Portuguese introduced several culinary elements to Sri Lanka. One of the most significant contributions to Sri Lankan cuisine was the introduction of new ingredients. The Portuguese traders brought with them a variety of foods from their native land, as well as from their colonies in Africa, Asia, and the Americas. Among these ingredients, chillies, tomatoes, potatoes, and cashew nuts had a profound impact on Sri Lankan culinary traditions. Chillies, in particular, revolutionised Sri Lankan cuisine, adding heat and depth of flavour to many dishes. Prior to the arrival of the Portuguese, Sri Lankan cuisine was relatively mild, relying on spices like black pepper and cinnamon for flavour. The introduction of chilli transformed the island's culinary landscape, leading to the creation of spicy curries, sambols, and condiments that are now staples of Sri Lankan cuisine. Tomatoes were another important ingredient introduced by the Portuguese. They added acidity and sweetness to Sri Lankan dishes, balancing out the heat of the chilli and complementing the rich flavours of curries and stews. Tomatoes became an integral component of many Sri Lankan recipes, including curries, chutneys, and salads. Potatoes, native to South America, were also introduced to Sri Lanka by the Portuguese. They quickly became a popular ingredient in Sri Lankan cuisine, used in curries, stir-fries, and snacks. Potatoes provided a hearty and versatile base for many dishes, adding texture and substance to meals. The Portuguese introduced cashew nuts to Sri Lanka, which became a prized ingredient in both sweet and savory dishes. Cashew nuts were used to add crunch and richness to curries, rice dishes, and desserts, and they remain a beloved ingredient in Sri Lankan cuisine to this day. In addition to introducing new ingredients, the Portuguese also influenced Sri Lankan cooking with the introduction of new culinary techniques, such as baking, grilling, and pickling. These were adopted and adapted by Sri Lankan cooks, leading to the creation of new dishes and flavour profiles. Baking became a popular cooking method in Sri Lanka delivering Portuguese-inspired dishes such as "breudher" (a sweet bread) and "bol de coco" (coconut cake), these fast became beloved treats in Sri Lankan households, especially during festive occasions like Christmas and Easter. Grilling was another cooking technique introduced by the Portuguese that had a significant impact on Sri Lankan cuisine. Portuguese-inspired dishes like "devilled dishes" (e.g., devilled chicken or devilled fish) showcase the fusion of Portuguese and Sri Lankan culinary techniques, with the use of spices and vinegar in cooking. Pickling techniques influenced the preparation of condiments and preserves. Portuguese-inspired pickles and relishes, such as "achcharu" (pickle) and "escabeche," (pickled fish) became popular accompaniments to Sri Lankan meals, adding tanginess and complexity to dishes. The introduction of clay pots, copper pans, and grilling racks changed the way Sri Lankan food was prepared and cooked. These utensils became integral to Sri Lankan kitchen and are used to this day. The Portuguese left a lasting imprint on Sri Lankan culture, influencing various aspects of society, including language, religion, and social customs. One of the most significant cultural legacies of the Portuguese era is the introduction of Christianity to Sri Lanka. The Portuguese missionaries actively promoted Catholicism on the island, leading to the conversion of many Sri Lankans to the faith. Today, Catholicism remains a prominent religion in Sri Lanka, particularly among the coastal communities that were heavily influenced by Portuguese missionaries. The Portuguese, however, were aggressive in their efforts to convert the local population to Christianity. They persecuted Buddhists and Hindus, destroyed temples and religious sites, and imposed heavy taxes on non-Christians. This led to social unrest and resistance among the local population. The Portuguese introduced new musical instruments and styles to Sri Lanka, including the violin and the "baila" music genre. Baila music, characterized by its lively rhythm and catchy melodies, reflects the fusion of Portuguese and Sri Lankan musical traditions, and remains popular in Sri Lanka. The Portuguese also had a significant impact on Sri Lankan language and literature. Portuguese words and phrases were incorporated into the Sinhala and Tamil languages, enriching the island's linguistic diversity. Many everyday terms in Sri Lanka, particularly related to commerce, administration, botany, food, military, administration, and household items, bear traces of Portuguese influence. Portuguese-inspired festivals like the Feast of St. Anthony and the Feast of Our Lady of Madhu were introduced and are celebrated with great fervour in Sri Lanka, highlighting the enduring influence of Portuguese culture on the island. Portuguese rule, however, saw the destruction of many cultural and historical sites. They demolished Buddhist and Hindu temples, as well as palaces and monuments, contributing to the loss of Sri Lanka's rich cultural heritage. The Portuguese made significant contributions to Sri Lankan architecture, particularly in the construction of forts, churches, and administrative buildings. One of the most iconic examples of Portuguese architecture in Sri Lanka is the Galle Fort, built by the Portuguese in the 16th century. The fort, with its sturdy walls, bastions, and ramparts, served as a strategic stronghold for the Portuguese and later the Dutch and British colonial powers. Today, the Galle Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and stands as a testament to the architectural prowess of the Portuguese. In addition to forts, the Portuguese also built churches and chapels across Sri Lanka, many of which are still in use today. The most famous of these is the St. Mary's Church in Negombo, believed to be the oldest church in Sri Lanka. Built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, the church features a blend of Portuguese and Sri Lankan architectural styles, with its distinctive gable roof and decorative facade. Portuguese-inspired architecture, characterized by its use of arches, columns, and decorative motifs, can be seen in cities like Colombo, Galle, and Jaffna. These architectural styles reflect the fusion of Portuguese and local elements, creating a unique aesthetic that is distinctly Sri Lankan. The overall impact of the Portuguese era can be seen as positive in certain areas; however, the Portuguese rule led to social disruption and decline in many areas. The imposition of heavy taxes and forced labour contributed to poverty and famine among the local population and the introduction of European diseases such as smallpox decimated indigenous communities. The establishment of a monopoly on trade in Sri Lanka, exploiting local resources and imposing high tariffs on goods resulted in economic hardship for the local population and hindered the development of indigenous industries. The Portuguese interference in local politics and support for rival factions often resulted in political instability and conflict within Sri Lanka. This weakened indigenous power structures and further destabilized the region. Overall, the Portuguese rule in Sri Lanka had lasting effects on the island's food, society, economy, culture, and political stability, leaving a legacy that lasted for centuries.
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AuthorPete is a Sri Lankan born Australian with over 40 years experience in hospitality. Pete has a deep love and understanding of the culture, cuisine and hospitality industries of both countries - knowledge which he weaves into his culinary tours. Archives
March 2024
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